The output (I did not remove the color cast) and then the inputs .
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k4LomD ... sp=sharing
the 7 inputs (downsized):
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing
I was watching a football game and wasn't very careful. Looking forward to some more "controlled" attempts (when the weather outside improves).
My first try at HDR in PSP - 7 exposure settings
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Re: My first try at HDR in PSP - 7 exposure settings
It might be useful if you could outline your workflow and why and how you used those 7 settings. As far as HDR is concerned, I just use an appropriate HDR filter from the Nik collection. There's quite a variety and the effects can be dramatic.
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Re: My first try at HDR in PSP - 7 exposure settings
When preparing images for use in the PSP HDR you need to consider what you require and take the images to suit.
In your case there appeares to be too many images shot near the dark end (to try and get the TV image correct)
I would take one image so that the TV image is perfectly exposed and note the settings, then one image that is perfectly exposed for the under TV area which seems the darkest , another for the right hand area. That would give you three images.
Perhaps another one with settings midway between the right hand exposure and teh one under the TV (darkest area). Then you have 4 exposures over the whole scene area to combine.
The HDR filter that Ken has mentioned is sometimes referred to as a fake HDR as it only uses a single image and so is subject to that images limitations.
True HDR uses exposures for the highlight, the midtones and another for the Shadows as a minimum.
If you have deep shadow in a single image then there will probably be very little data there and nothing can be done to bring up lost data. If you change your exposure so that the shadow area is exposed to give it correct exposure and disregarding the rest of the image then you get more data there and that data is what an HDR processing will use.
So true HDR will blend the best exposed parts from a number of differently exposed images to provide a final image that has data in all the sections but is a little flat as the contrast range has been reduced.
In your case there appeares to be too many images shot near the dark end (to try and get the TV image correct)
I would take one image so that the TV image is perfectly exposed and note the settings, then one image that is perfectly exposed for the under TV area which seems the darkest , another for the right hand area. That would give you three images.
Perhaps another one with settings midway between the right hand exposure and teh one under the TV (darkest area). Then you have 4 exposures over the whole scene area to combine.
The HDR filter that Ken has mentioned is sometimes referred to as a fake HDR as it only uses a single image and so is subject to that images limitations.
True HDR uses exposures for the highlight, the midtones and another for the Shadows as a minimum.
If you have deep shadow in a single image then there will probably be very little data there and nothing can be done to bring up lost data. If you change your exposure so that the shadow area is exposed to give it correct exposure and disregarding the rest of the image then you get more data there and that data is what an HDR processing will use.
So true HDR will blend the best exposed parts from a number of differently exposed images to provide a final image that has data in all the sections but is a little flat as the contrast range has been reduced.
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