DVD Lables?

[dbz2000]

Ink prices are ridiculous across the board, Epson isn't the only company that deserves criticism in this area.

Again I agree with THoff, all printer companies get their monies from the sell of peripherals and inks, thus cheap printer prices. Thanks for the idea THoff about using black & white and/or grayscale for my plain data disks. Sure will save a bit down the road.javascript:emoticon(':P')
Razz[/quote]

[Masked Mystery II]

Wow! Good discussion.

I have a professional wrestling video company http://www.wrestlingclassics.com, and I'm in the process of converting my titles from VHS to DVD and I'm starting with DVD-R. I bought disc labels and took them to a local printer to get them professionally printed. To be accurate, they're running the adobe files of my designs through a high end copy machine. At 65 cents a sheet, it's actually cheaper than printing them myself and replacing the ink jets.

Would I be better off long term of getting the ink jet printer that prints on printable media? Would that solve any problems with glue affecting the discs or inks affecting the discs down the road?

[david reece]

this really isnt the place to advise you what to buy for your production company.

i think the answer here is you do so at your own risk no one can be held responsible if it goes pearshaped!

CD/DVD rot is where the laquer on the upside of the disc has been compromised by solvents in the ink or glue. as a result the metal layer below it turns a bronzed color. the cheaper the brand the more likely the effect is to occur.

A UK CD producer (i will not name) in the late 80's early 90's decided tp use a cheqper laquer for the back of the CD. Basically the ink eat through this layer allowing the atmosphere to penetrate the layer below. Also the laquer was so poor that merely picking up the disc from the case caused micro fractures around the ink.

as a result the sulphur in the paper made the disc bronze and unplayable. I have loads of CD's which have done this. luckily the producer has had to replace all discs which are returned to them!

the problem with the inks and glues is that they have not been tested thorough enough.

Reports are filtering thorugh in a magazine i read recently that cheapo brands have given up the ghost after 3-4 months.

you have been warned!

[erock1]

Out of curiosity, how come no one has talked about using non-OEM ink? I have an Epson Injet Stylus Photo 785EPX and I switched over to non-Epson ink light years ago. The digital photos I print are beautiful and so far have stood up archivaly speaking. I have prints that are 7 years old and still look as good as the day they came off the Epson. At first I was paying the highway robber prices for Epson OEM ink, color $19.95 and black $24.95. The non OEM ink I use costs, color $7.29 and black: $6.49. I buy in bulk and it's even less expensive.

[erock1]

That Sharpie comment referred to CDs, and as we all know, DVDs are different: thinner.
Keith

Keith,
I know no such thing with regards to DVDs being thinner. All I know is that I have cracked and broken in two many a CD. For the most part, I can't break a DVD (at least not the princo's I use) in two pieces. I have to use a heavy shear to cut them up.

[THoff]

That Sharpie comment referred to CDs, and as we all know, DVDs are different: thinner.
Keith

Keith,
I know no such thing with regards to DVDs being thinner. All I know is that I have cracked and broken in two many a CD. For the most part, I can't break a DVD (at least not the princo's I use) in two pieces. I have to use a heavy shear to cut them up.

To be precise, DVDs have essentially the same overall thickness as CDs, but their construction is different. If you are talking about a dual-layer disk (either pressed or recordable), then the disk will be made up of two optical layers sandwiched between protective polycarbonate layers. The top protective layer of a DVD that you would write on with a pen would have less than half the thickness of that of a CD.