thanks for pushing me to learn something new..
this was a trip down memory lane.. those dark days of fuji s2 using b4 in no-cm mode. (you dont have to understand this).
anyway.. by taking a look at the the files you provided and the fuji manual, my only conclusion is:stay away from the DR-settings if shooting raw!!!
DR100 is doing a nice job. really. awesome would be a better word. if you tend to overexpose your images better dial in -1/3 with the classic exposure compensation on the camera. here's my explanation why:
by using DR200 or even DR400 in the higher isos you are compressing your dynamic range even more than what already occurs due to upping the iso. for those not having read the manual: DR200 is available from iso400 on, DR400 from iso800 upwards. so you have less DR due to technical limitations, then fuji does some DR magic but gives you really a raw-file that only uses a part of the available dataspace. some banding will occur. or noise. or both.
then you have all the problems in your workflow.. on location you always think about "what DR setting is best" instead of shooting pictures you care about. back home you have to identify the different settings (dunno of CA-quest could help), treat them all differently etc etc. - as a professional i can tell you that every setting you try to change on location is making your photography more complicated, more technical and less about the result. unless you are shooting highly technical stuff like a reproduction of artwork. but then you wouldnt trust a magic setting of your camera, either.
DR100 would be my choice, because it works across the whole iso range, does an awesome job and makes your outcome and workflow easier and predictable. having choices doesnt mean one has to take all of them all the time.